You’ve always dreamed of exploring the Cotswolds, but you don’t have a car? This post will help you plan the perfect car free, first-time visit.
The Cotswolds is one of England’s most enchanting corners. It is a countryside area made of wild expanses of nature, fields, and quaint villages. One might think that having a car is absolutely necessary for a successful visit to the Cotswolds. However, I can tell you it is possible to visit the Cotswolds without a car. Read on to plan your trip from A to Z!
Main towns to see on this car-free itinerary
The Cotswolds is an area vast enough that it is difficult to see all of it on a single trip. On this first trip, we visited the Northern Cotswolds. In my opinion, the main towns to see on a first car-free trip would be:
Stow-on-the-Wold
Upper and Lower Slaughter
Bourton-on-the-Water
Chipping Camden
Of course the list of “must-sees” highly depends on who you ask. This is my top list. And you can visit all these places at a relaxed pace by staying three days in the Cotswolds.
How to travel to the Cotswolds without a car
It was very easy and straightforward for us to get to the Cotswolds as we arrived from London. The most direct journey is a train ride from London Paddington to Moreton-in-Marsh. The train ride is direct and lasts 1h30.
I always recommend buying train tickets online ahead of time. Moreton-in-Marsh is part of the Cotswolds, and a great hub for hotels and restaurants in the area. But read below for an even better town to stay during your time in the Cotswolds!
If you fly internationally to reach the UK, you can also fly into Bristol airport. Then, take a quick and cheap train from Bristol to Cheltenham. Cheltenham is a spa town located in the North-West of the Cotswolds area.
These are not the only ways to travel to the Cotswolds. However, these two are the easiest and shortest routes. This is assuming you are travelling from outside the UK, like I was. It also applies if you are travelling from London.
How to choose your accommodation in the Cotswolds
When choosing accommodation in the Cotswolds, you should have planned your itinerary already. Choose your base town based on what you want to see. Also, consider the journeys you will have to make to get there.
I chose to stay in Stow-on-the-Wold. Stow is a great base because it is on the main bus line we would use during our trip. Also, it has a wide choice of restaurants and shops. We had enough options to suit our moods after our long days of exploring. I did not want to pick a very small village, where we might have struggled to find food.
Exploring Stow after the tourist groups had left was wonderful. It is one of the most popular villages and thus gets busy during the day.
My mum and I stayed in a lovely apartment in one of the main streets of Stow. It was cosy, well-decorated and the owners were easy to reach. It is the perfect place to stay for two travellers. Here is the Booking link to the apartment. Check it out, I promise you’ll thank me later!
Here are a few other accommodation choices in Stow-on-the-Wold: Victoria House, The Sheep, The Stag, Lucy’s Tearoom.
I will add that Bourton-on-the-Water would be another great base for a stay in the Cotswolds. It would give you a chance to see the busiest and most popular Cotswolds village after the crowds are gone. You would also enjoy it before they arrive in the morning.
Here are a few options for accommodation in Bourton, with the best price to quality ratio: Webbys Windrush Walk, Chester House Hotel, The Dial House, The Mousetrap Inn, Meadow Rise Guest House.
Click on the links to add dates and check prices.
The only downside of staying in Bourton-on-the-Water instead of Stow-on-the-Wold is that Bourton is further out on the regular bus line.
Moreton-in-Marsh can also be used as a base for a Cotswolds trip. It has plenty of accommodation choices and restaurants. I found it had a little less charm than Stow and Bourton, however.
Here are some great value for money accommodation options in Moreton-in-Marsh: The Manor House Hotel, The Redesdale Arms Hotel, The White Hart Royal, The Bell Inn.
For a more budget option, I recommend Siam Cottage Guesthouse. We spent one night there.
How to travel from village to village
I will be honest here: travelling by car remains the fastest way to get around the Cotswolds. If you decide to travel by public transport, like us, be aware that you will have to take things more slowly. In my opinion, a stay in the Cotswolds is meant to be enjoyed slowly anyway, with long walks in the fields and slow days. If that is what you have in mind, then you will have a perfectly good trip using public transport to get around.
From the train station of Moreton-in-Marsh, you can catch bus 801 to Stow-on-the-Wold. It also goes to Bourton-on-the-Water and all the way to Cheltenham, which is a bigger town in the Cotswolds.
The 801 is quite regular and was the main line we used to go around, since we were based in Stow.
From Moreton-in-Marsh, we also used line 1 to get to Blockley, from which we went on a long walk. Again, that bus line was reliable. One thing to keep in mind when using public transport in the Cotswolds: plan your day out in advance. Do this the evening before or early in the morning. Some buses are more frequent than others. If you are connecting between two bus routes, don’t miss your connection by not planning ahead of time!
We used Google Maps to get an idea of distances, and the Pulhams App for exact bus times and itineraries. You can buy your tickets on the app as well, and this is a life saver.
Want to know which towns you can visit in the same day as they are linked together? Read my “Three days in the Cotwolds” tips below!
The Robin: a bookable bus around the Cotswolds and Gloucestershire
The Robin is another helpful service you can use to travel around the Cotswolds. It is a bus service designed to connect areas where usual bus lines don’t stop. On the app, you can plan your trip ahead of time and “order” a minibus. You have to plan at least an hour in advance, as the minibuses work around the bookings of the travellers.
We used this handy service to travel from Stow-on-the-Wold to Sezincote House and Gardens. We also booked it from Chipping Campden back to Stow-on-the-Wold. Both times, there were very few people in the minibus. This service is still little known and mostly used by residents. However, visitors can also use it. You can buy tickets on the app. It is truly a convenient add-on to regular bus lines!
Three days in the Cotswolds: steal our full itinerary!
This itinerary works best if you are based in Stow-on-the-Wold or Moreton-in-Marsh.
Day 1: Explore Stow-on-the-Wold & Sezincote House & Garden
In the morning, make sure you have booked a trip from Stow-on-the-Wold to Sezincote on The Robin app. There is no direct bus line to go there, and I don’t recommend following the Google Maps itinerary. Enter “Stow-on-the-Wold” and “Sezincote House” on the app for the most precise trip.
The highest town in the Cotswolds, Stow-on-the-Wold has a rich History. It was built by the Romans and has been a market town for centuries. Enjoy a walk around its quaint streets lined picturesque cafés like Lucy’s Tearoom and Avenue. Go book hunting at the Borzoi Bookshop, buy adorable mugs at The Crock Shop, and do not miss Tara Antiques Centre on the Market Square. It is the most beautiful and furnished antique shop I went in the Cotswolds!
On the second Thursday of the month, there is a small but lovely local market on the Square. We bought some locally-made fudge there and enjoyed the market town feel.
Stow’s biggest attraction is the North Door of St Edward’s Church. You may have seen it before because it is very picture-worthy! Don’t miss the church itself too, and have a look at the embroidered kneelers which are a delight to look at.
After having lunch in Stow-on-the-Wold, take your Robin bus to Sezincote House. The driver may find it difficult to find the entrance gate to drop you off, so keep your location services on and a map open to check. That happened to us when we were there! Because, truth is, Sezincote House is a little under the radar. Outshine by other stately homes in the area, it is less crowded. Even in mid-August, there were only a few visitors there with us last year.
The unique House and Gardens of Sezincote were designed and built in the late 18th and early 19th century. They are meant to capture architectural elements of India which is where the first family who owned the land made its fortune.
Today, Sezincote is still privately owned, by a different family however. In summer, the gardens are breathtaking: lavish plants and trees grow around ponds, fountains and statues.
The house itself is quite striking also. It can only be visited with a guide, but there are regular tours. I highly recommend stopping by the Pavilion for tea and cake in the most beautiful setting.
From Sezincote, you can book another Robin bus ride. Alternatively, like us, you can walk the beautiful straight road from Sezincote to Bourton-on-the-Hill. The views from that road are stunning on a clear day, and the village of Bourton is a lovely walk downhill from there.
Alternatively to Sezincote House, on your first day in the Cotswolds, you could visit Bourton House Garden instead. For this itinerary, I recommend spending the morning in Stow. Then, head to Moreton-in-Marsh for lunch via bus 801. Afterward, take bus 1 from Moreton to Bourton House Garden.
Day 2: Bourton-on-the-Water, Lower Slaughter & Upper Slaughter
As Bourton is the most popular Cotswolds town in this area, I recommend going there early. You can get there via bus 801. If like us, you arrive before the shops open, it is the perfect opportunity to explore.
Walk along the River Windrush, and take beautiful pictures on the bridges. Have breakfast at one of the many local cafés. We enjoyed the pastries at The Cornish Bakery, but found the place slightly over-expensive, unfortunately. The Den and Bakery on the Water both seem like lovely spots. You have to be there early though as the town quickly fills up with tourists!
In Bourton, there are a couple museums you can visit: the Cotswold Motoring Museum and the Model Village. We visited the latter, which was cute but got busy quickly as it is rather small. I wouldn’t say it is a must-see in Bourton, unlike what some other travellers have said online.
There are some lovely shops in Bourton-on-the-Water. Admittedly, they are pricey. Make sure to save up if you want to bring back cute souvenirs! The Cotswold Merchants China & Cookware has an impressive collection of British-themed collectibles, from Paddington to Peter Rabbit. The Little Nook is perfect for gifts and homeware. The Looking Glass is a lovely antiques store where I spotted beautiful vintage books and Cash’s of Coventry silk frames.
After lunch in Bourton-on-the-Water, take bus 801, 802 or 855 towards Moreton-in-Marsh and get off at the Pulhams Bus Depot stop. Walk around 20ish minutes on Copsehill Road to reach Lower Slaughter, my second-favourite village after Stow. It is an easy walk, however it is on a small road so always remain careful and watch out for cars.
When you arrive in Lower Slaughter, visit the idyllic church of St Mary’s. From there, walk towards Becky Hill along the stunning homes and River Eye. Don’t miss the Old Mill, which still works to this day. Take the Warden’s Way, which is one of the many walking paths the Cotswolds are famous for. It is a lovely path through the fields. At the end of it you’ll reach Upper Slaughter. There, visit St Peter’s Church and try to find the Old School building.
By then it should be mid to late-afternoon, the perfect time to walk back towards Lower Slaughter. It is a wonderful, peaceful walk. Before you head back to your base, have a well-deserved pint at the Slaughters Country Inn. If the weather is good, you can sit in the garden with your drink – the best way to end a busy day.
Day 3: The long walk day: Blockley, Broad Campden and Chipping Campden
On this third and last full day in the Cotswolds, if you feel like taking a long walk through the villages, this is the itinerary I suggest. Take the bus to Blockley. You can take bus 801 and 1 from Stow-on-the-Wold, or bus 1 from Moreton-in-Marsh.
There, you will start your journey. Blockley is a quiet and picturesque village away from the crowds. You can have a light lunch or brunch at Blockley Café before starting your walk.
We used this Komoot walk and downloaded the app, which was very handy. Do not do the whole loop as your trip ends in Chipping Campden, Broad Campden being the middle point.
The walk to Broad Campden is lovely, mostly through quiet fields. There is a wonderful hilly part to the walk. You will feel like you stepped in a Jane Austen novel!
Once in Broad Campden, stop for lunch at the Bakers Arms. This cosy pub was used in the British TV series Father Brown. The service is very friendly and the food delicious there.
After a walk around the small but lovely Broad Campden, you are only a half hour away from Chipping Campden. It is an easy and slightly downhill walk through fields. In mid-August, the fields were full of red clovers as far as the eye could see. It was my favourite part of the walk!
Once you reach Chipping Camden, take some time to explore this lovely, historic town. Visit the Market Hall, which is protected by the National Trust. Admire the facades of old buildings like the Woolstapler’s Hall and the Almshouses.
Enjoy some ice cream at Gelato. There are several lovely gift and home stores in Chipping Campden. Don’t miss St James’ Church and its picturesque alley of trees leading up to the door.
To get back to our base in Stow, we had ordered a Robin minibus from Chipping Campden. It brought us back to our village quickly and without hassle!
Still worried about using public transport in the Cotswolds? Try a one-day excursion from London instead.
Finally, if you don’t feel ready to plan a whole car-free trip around the Cotswolds, I get you! It requires a lot of planning and precising timing. I have one more tip for you: day trips to the Cotswolds from London or a day trip from Bath. Here are my favourite tours to choose from!
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